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Pet AllergiesPET ALLERGIES
Does your pet suffer from allergies? Allergies are among the most common problems seen by veterinarians. There are four different types of allergy.
Heading the list is the most common allergy seen in companion animals, flea allergy dermatitis (FAD). FAD is an itchy skin problem that is seen when pets become sensitized to flea saliva. It usually becomes apparent after the pet is six months old. Every year signs tend to start earlier in the flea season and last a little longer in the fall, with the condition progressively worsening as the pet ages.
Factors that influence the life cycle of fleas include temperature, humidity and carbon dioxide (which is exhaled every time pets and their humans breathe). Fleas love warm, moist conditions with pets and people available to feed on and can prevent themselves from hatching if conditions aren't ideal. This is why flea populations can increase when the weather changes from cool to warm, or dry to moist, and when you come home with your pet after an extended stay away from home.
FAD can be diagnosed using intradermal patch tests, similar to the ones used in humans, or an ELISA blood test, if fleas cannot be seen on the pet, as is often the case in pets that are very sensitive to flea saliva. These hypersensitive pets require only one bite to show extensive, long lasting reactions. They also tend to be very skilled groomers, who keep fleas off of their bodies, making diagnosis of FAD difficult.
Flea control involves an aggressive program that prevents larval fleas from hatching, and kills adults, on the pets as well as in the environment. There are many excellent, once a month flea treatments now available. The best ones are sold legally only through veterinary clinics, but are well worth the cost of the visit to the veterinarian since they really work. Cat owners need to be particularly careful when treating their pets and the environment because many flea products are toxic and fatal to cats. Be sure you are using a product that is safe by checking with your veterinarian.
Food allergy is animals is still being studied. Your pets signs may include hives, vomiting and diarrhea. Symptoms are usually year round, with itch being the primary sign, resulting in baldness and raw patches from scratching. Food allergy can be seen at any age. In cats, food allergy often results in lesions on the head and neck. Onset can be sudden or gradual. The only valid method of diagnosing food allergy is an elimination diet. Your vet can discuss this type of diet with you as it involves considerably more than just switching brands of pet food.
Atopy, the third type of allergy, results from inhaling the allergen or absorbing it through the skin. Itching and/or salivary staining (the brown stains visible on light dogs around the feet, face and other areas the dog or cat can reach to lick), and eye problems such as cataracts and trauma to the cornea (surface of the eye) are the most common signs. You may less commonly see reddened eyes, a runny nose or "reverse sneezing". Atopy usually affects pets over six months old with the itchiness generally beginning between one and three years of age.
Atopy can be diagnosed using the patch test or the RAST or ELISA blood test. There are many available therapies for atopy including avoiding the allergens, hyposensitization and medical therapy. If the first one your veterinarian recommends doesn't work, have him or her recommend another one. The goal when treating atopy is to keep the pet comfortably itchy, since it may not be possible to eliminate the problem completely.
Allergic contact dermatitis results from a pet touching something to which it has become hypersensitized. It is usually seen in pets that have developed a hypersensitivity to chemicals in plastic food dishes, plastic collars or in drugs such as ointments, that are placed directly on the skin. Pets reacting to plastic food dishes will have sore spots on their noses, while those reacting to plastic collars can have extensive reddened, itching areas around the collar soon after it has been put on. Allergy to drugs on the skin can cause baldness with reddened sores, usually on those areas that are covered by the medication. If the animal is reacting to a chemical in the environment (such as carpet cleaner), reddened, sore, itchy areas can be seen where the animal contacts the allergen, such as on the chest, abdomen, and the back of the legs. In many cases, avoidance of the cause is easily possible.
Always check with your veterinarian for diagnosis of allergy because
there are medical conditions that can be mistaken for allergy or that contribute
to allergy. Allergy can usually be treated quite effectively once its cause
is diagnosed. Treatment greatly contributes to your pet's well being and
comfort and is well worth the time, energy and cost.
Pet Food, Part 1PET FOOD
Whatís In That Bag or Can?
When you go into a pet supply or grocery store, you are confronted by long aisles of pet foods. There are different brands; within each brand are foods of different qualities such as premium, generic, or standard. Some foods are for "all stages of life". Some are for pets in specific stages of life, such as puppy or kitten food, senior foods, or performance foods. There are also various "prescription diets". How do you select the best one for your particular pet? Today, Iíll talk about some of the different types of pet food: whatís in the bag or can.
Almost all pet food is formulated, labeled and manufactured under the auspices of the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), who report to the Food and Drug Administration AAFCO is made up of feed control officials from each state. Its recommended "Model Regulations" include standards and definitions for all ingredients in pet food, as well as guidelines regarding what information must be on a pet food label. All pet foods must be registered with the state feed officials and must contain only approved ingredients generally seen as safe, unless they are specialized foods for the prevention and treatment of disease. These prescription diets are considered to be drugs and must be approved by the FDA. That is why they are available only from veterinarians.
Commercial pet food is available in three basic forms: wet food (canned), dry food, and soft-moist food. The foods are classed based on the how they are processed and their water content, rather than their nutritional qualities or ingredients. Complete and balanced commercial pet food diets provide the correct amount of required nutrients for that animal. These diets shouldn't be supplemented with additional nutrients such as vitamins or minerals without veterinary guidance.
Within these three basic food divisions are the general categories of premium, standard, and generic. The word "premium" has no official definition, and can be used, in fact, on any pet food. It is usually, but not always, used on foods with high nutrient content, especially protein and fat, and high digestibility. If you want a high protein, high fat, highly digestible food for your pet, the term "premium" is no guarantee you've selected one.
Dry food is the biggest seller. Dry food consists of about 90% dry matter and 10% water. Most dry foods are extruded. This means they are made by combining, then cooking, the ingredients (meat and meat by-products, grains, fats, minerals and vitamins). The cooking process makes the starches more digestible, destroys toxins and sterilizes the food. It is then forced through a die to give it shape. The shapes are coated in fat or other materials to increase tastiness and then dried to their final form The advantages of dry food are its low cost, and that it doesn't need refrigeration once the package is open. It also decreases periodontal disease by massaging the teeth and gums.
Canned food is about 68-78% water, and 22-32% dry matter. You may notice that your cat drinks less water when on a canned food diet. That's because more of its water needs are met by the water in the canned food. The type of canned food is determined by its ingredients. Ration type contains a mixture of cereals, meat, and meat by-products blended into what they hope is an attractive physical form. Chunk style and stew are two different kinds of ration type food. Stew is more watery than chunk-style. Animal-tissue foods don't have cereal in them. They are made of meat, organ tissues, and fat. The advantages of canned foods are a long shelf life, sturdy container and high palatability. Canned food is more expensive than dry food of the same quality.
Soft-moist foods are 25-40% water and 60-75% dry matter. They don't require refrigeration and are preserved with humectants. Humectants are substances that make water unavailable for mold and bacteria, which need it to grow. They also contain simple sugars (such as sucrose), sorbitol, propylene glycol, and salt. Many soft-moist foods also contain phosphoric, malic or hydrochloric acid to prevent spoiling. There is some concern that the soft-moist foods should not be fed to cats because of a potential increased risk of a type of anemia associated with eating propylene glycol. Advantages of soft-moist foods are their convenience, high energy and digestibility and their tastiness. They are more expensive than dry foods of the same quality.
Foods can be prepared according to a fixed or an open formulation. Foods made from an open formula have ingredients and nutritional compositions that change according to availability and market prices. Foods prepared according to a fixed formulation have ingredients and nutrient profiles that don't change when availability or market prices changes. Although the type of formulation is not on the product, if you are concerned about this, you can contact the company to ask about production methods.
Dog food isn't a good choice for a cat because it is usually too low in protein, don't contain the essential ingredient taurine and don't help prevent urinary problems. Conversely, cat food shouldn't be fed to dogs, because it isnít balanced to meet a dogís nutritional needs.
Well, that ís whatís in the bag or can. Next Barker I'll
tell you a little about what ís on the label.
Pet Food, Part 2PET FOOD LABELS
So, how do we know what's in the bag or can? Which food should we select?
Don't select a pet food just by looking at the label's claims. These can be very deceptive. For example, a food that says "especially designed to help kittens grow" has no meaning because "helping" is too vague. "Helping" may mean "a tiny bit" or, "a lot" or, "some" or "any amount in between". A label that says "contains an ingredient to promote the continued health of normal joints" has the same problem. What does "promote" mean? A little, a lot, almost not at all? What do the terms "healthy" and " normal" mean? Unfortunately, you can't use these statements to select a pet food.
What about other claims on the label? What information on the food is reliable?
The most helpful details on the label from the consumer's point of view are two required by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), the name of the product and the guaranteed analysis; and two that aren't required, the statement of validation and the statement of nutritional adequacy.
The title of the pet food says a lot. Food titles have very specific meanings. A bag of "Granny's all beef Doggie food" must contain only beef skeletal muscle, in addition to trace amounts of additives such as preservatives, while "Granny's beef dinner for Doggies" is only required to be 25% beef skeletal muscle.
The guaranteed analysis tells you the minimum amount of fat and protein and the maximum amount of water and fiber in the food. It doesn't guarantee the actual amounts of protein, water, fat and fiber present in the food, just the maximums and minimums that are present.
Although it isn't a legal requirement, better pet foods will include a Statement of Nutritional Adequacy on the label and/or a Validation Statement.
The statement of Nutritional Adequacy and Validation Statement indicate two things: 1) what life stage the food is intended to feed and, 2) whether the food is "complete and balanced"
AAFCO gives official recognition to four life stages: growth, maintenance, gestation and lactation. If the label says "all life stages", this indicates a growth diet. AAFCO has not approved nutrient profiles for geriatric, senior or weight loss stages, although they may in the future.
The "complete and balanced" validation statement indicates that the food has all the essential ingredients needed to supply your pet's nutritional needs on a daily basis without any supplements being required.
The reason that the list of ingredients isn't as helpful to the consumer is that it may be hard to interpret. Ingredients in pet foods are listed according to weight, with the heaviest listed first. An ingredient with lots of water in it may not be contributing as much of the nutrition as a dry ingredient that weighs less but has little water in it. For example, if the beef is 75% water, it may be the heaviest ingredient in the food, because of the water, but not the one contributing the most nutritional value.
Another problem with the list of ingredients is that there can not be any specific reference to the quality or grade of an ingredient. This makes it impossible to evaluate the quality of a food by looking at a list of the ingredients. The list of ingredients is most useful when determining potential causes of allergies or food intolerances, or other adverse reactions to the food.
There is no one "best" dog or cat food. There are many excellent and reliable products on the market. You need to consider many factors, such as size of the pet, the number of pets in your household, their stage of life, activity level, housing, and your lifestyle, among others, when choosing a pet food.
For more information about the food you've just bought, or a food you're considering buying, contact the US Food and Drug Administration Center for Veterinary Medicine's website at:
http://www.fda.gov/cvm/index/consumer/petlabel.htm
PET FOOD BASICS
When you go into a pet supply or grocery store, you are confronted by long aisles of pet foods. There are different brands; within each brand are foods of different qualities such as premium, generic, or standard. Some foods are for "all stages of life". Some are for pets in specific stages of life, such as puppy or kitten food, senior foods, or performance foods. There are also various "prescription diets". How do you select the best one for your particular pet?
Almost all pet food is formulated, labeled and manufactured under the auspices of the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). This group is comprised of feed control officials from each state. Its recommended "Model Regulations" include standards and definitions for all ingredients in pet food, as well as guidelines regarding what information must be on a pet food label. All pet foods must be registered with the state feed officials and must contain only approved ingredients generally seen as safe, unless they are specialized foods for the prevention and treatment of disease. These prescription diets are considered to be drugs and must be approved by the FDA. That is why they are available only from veterinarians.
Commercial pet food is available in three basic forms: wet food (canned), dry food, and soft-moist food. The foods are classed based on the how they are processed and their water content, rather than their nutritional qualities or ingredients. Complete and balanced commercial pet food diets provide the correct amount of required nutrients for that animal. These diets shouldn't be supplemented with additional nutrients such as vitamins or minerals without veterinary guidance.
Within these three basic food divisions are the general categories of premium, standard, and generic. The word "premium" has no official definition, and can be used, in fact, on any pet food. It is usually, but not always, used on foods with high nutrient content, especially protein and fat, and high digestibility. If you want a high protein, high fat, highly digestible food for your pet, the term "premium" is no guarantee you've selected one.
Dry food is the biggest seller. Dry food consists of about 90% dry matter and 10% water. Most dry foods are extruded. This means they are made by combining, then cooking, the ingredients (meat and meat by-products, grains, fats, minerals and vitamins). The cooking process makes the starches more digestible, destroys toxins and sterilizes the food. It is then forced through a die to give it shape. The shapes are coated in fat or other materials to increase tastiness and then dried to their final form The advantages of dry food are its low cost, and that it doesn't need refrigeration once the package is open. It also decreases periodontal disease by massaging the teeth and gums.
Canned food is about 68-78% water, and 22-32% dry matter. You may notice that your cat drinks less water when on a canned food diet. That's because more of its water needs are met by the water in the canned food. The type of canned food is determined by its ingredients. Ration type contains a mixture of cereals, meat, and meat by-products blended into what they hope is an attractive physical form. Chunk style and stew are two different kinds of ration type food. Stew is more watery than chunk-style. Animal-tissue foods don't have cereal in them. They are made of meat, organ tissues, and fat. The advantages of canned foods are a long shelf life, sturdy container and high palatability. Canned food is more expensive than dry food of the same quality.
Soft-moist foods are 25-40% water and 60-75% dry matter. They don't require refrigeration and are preserved with humectants. Humectants are substances that make water unavailable for mold and bacteria, which need it to grow. They also contain simple sugars (such as sucrose), sorbitol, propylene glycol, and salt. Many soft-moist foods also contain phosphoric, malic or hydrochloric acid to prevent spoiling. There is some concern that the soft-moist foods should not be fed to cats because of a potential increased risk of a type of anemia associated with eating propylene glycol. Advantages of soft-moist foods are their convenience, high energy and digestibility and their tastiness. They are more expensive than dry foods of the same quality.
Dog food isn't a good choice for a cat because they are usually too low in protein, don't contain the essential ingredient taurine and don't help prevent urinary problems. Conversely, cat food shouldn't be fed routinely to dogs.
All pet foods are legally required to have information on the label giving the name of the product, the guaranteed analysis, ingredient guarantee, net weight, and name and address of the manufacturer and distributor. The AAFCO regulations are complicated, but a few generalizations can be made. First, look at the title of the pet food - it says a lot. A bag of "Granny's all beef Doggie food" must contain only beef skeletal muscle, in addition to trace amounts of additives such as preservatives. "Granny's beef dinner for Doggies" is only required to be 25% beef skeletal muscle. These titles have very specific meanings.
Ingredients in pet foods are listed according to weight, with the heaviest listed first. When you're evaluating foods, it's important to remember that an ingredient with lots of water in it may not be contributing as much of the nutrition as a dry ingredient that weighs less but has little water in it. For example, if the beef is 75% water, it may be the heaviest ingredient in the food, because of the water, but not be the one contributing the most nutritional value. There can not be any reference to the quality or grade of an ingredient. This makes it very difficult to evaluate the quality of a food by looking at a list of the ingredients. The list of ingredients is most useful when determining potential causes of allergies or food intolerances, or other adverse reactions to the food.
The guaranteed analysis tells you the minimum amount of fat and protein and the maximum amount of water and fiber in the food. It doesn't guarantee the actual amounts of protein, water, fat and fiber in the food, just the maximums and minimums that are present.
Foods can be prepared according to a fixed or an open formulation. Foods made from an open formula have ingredients and nutritional compositions that change according to availability and market prices. Foods prepared according to a fixed formulation have ingredients and nutrient profiles that don't change when availability or market prices changes. Although the type of formulation is not on the product, if you are concerned about this, you can contact the company to ask about production methods.
The most important part of the labeling from the consumer's point of view, is the Statement of Nutritional Adequacy. This statement indicates what life stage the food is intended for, and how the food was tested. Some foods are tested with actual feeding tests using live animals, and some foods are tested by analysis in the laboratory. The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) gives official recognition to four life stages: growth, maintenance, gestation and lactation. If the label says "all life stages", this indicates a growth diet. AAFCO has not approved nutrient profiles for geriatric, senior or weight loss stages, although they may in the future.
The label should contain a "validation statement" that the product is "complete and balanced". This means that it contains all nutrients presently known to be needed by the dog or cat, and these are correctly balanced with the energy provided by the diet. The "complete and balanced" claim has been validated by one of two methods. One is that the food has been evaluated and meets the standards of the AAFCO "Pet Food Nutrient Profiles" which lists the recommended concentrations of all the essential nutrients in pet foods. The second is that the product has passed feeding trials conducted according to protocols in the AAFCO regulations.
The label must also include "feeding recommendations". These recommendations, most often listed as cups or cans of food to feed for various sizes or weights of pets, are usually based on meeting the needs of the pet who needs more food than average. Pets vary tremendously in their nutritional requirements, but you may want to feed a little less than the recommended amount to start your pet on a new food, then increase the amount if it isn't enough.
As you can see, there is no one "best" dog or cat food. There are many excellent and reliable products on the market. You need to consider many factors, such as size of the pet, the number of pets in your household, their stage of life, activity level, housing, and your lifestyle, among others, when choosing a pet food.
Pawspice
"PAWSPICE" - CARING FOR YOUR PET DURING ITS LAST DAYS
The bond between pets and their humans often gets stronger as pets age. Half of our senior pets will die from cancer. The other half will die from other types of organ failure such as kidney, liver, or heart problems. Often pets with these diseases can live a long time from diagnosis to death. I recently attended a lecture discussing a new way for veterinarians to help pet owners deal with their pet's terminal illness - a way I believe many animal owners will find appealing.
The lecturer, Dr. Alice Villalobos, a founding member of the Veterinary Cancer Society and the winner of the 1999 Leo Bustad Companion Animal Veterinarian of the Year Award, pointed out that sometimes pet owners may feel there is nothing they can do to help a pet diagnosed as terminal, except euthanize.
Sometimes financial concerns or logistics may make treatment of a pet's serious illness unfeasible (for example, a kidney transplant for a cat costs upward from $20,000). Sometimes owners are willing and able to spare no expense in treating a terminally ill pet. Each pet's situation needs to be evaluated on an individual basis, as each owner has his or her own personal style, as well as financial and emotional tolerance. Each owner's decision about treating his or her pet should be treated with respect.
When the veterinarian has told the owner that the prognosis is terminal, and the owner has decided that further aggressive treatment is not in the animal's best interest, there is an alternative to immediate euthanasia. Dr. Villalobos said that the alternative is called "Pawspice"-'an interval between the thought and the final act of euthanasia, if the owner really feels that their pet still has a quality of life'.
In-home hospice care has been available to dying humans for years, but nothing similar was available for pets. If a pet is in the terminal stage of its life, in-home Pawspice care eases pain, lets the pet and owner remain in the home situation and supports the human-animal bond. The goal of Pawspice is palliation of pain, making things better for your "pal" ("pal"liation) during its final days. Some veterinarians and their staffs are learning the techniques and approaches necessary to provide full "end of life" services.
Pets in a Pawspice program receive ongoing pain relief and medical support to make them more comfortable and peaceful. The veterinarian prescribes the medications for the pet and teaches the pet owner not only how to give medications but techniques to help with problems like dehydration, respiration, infection, loss of house training, mobility impairments, or reluctance to eat. The owner, if they want, may learn to tube feed, give injections or a mini-bath. Equipment, such as ramps, pet wheel chairs, egg crate mattresses, ramps, oxygen tanks, Pampers, etc. may be helpful in helping the pet live longer and have a better quality of life at home.
One important recommendation given for pets in Pawspice is to have frequent, routine fun. Do the things the pet loves best. Often this will cheer up a sick pet and give him or her something to look forward to.
Many people want their pet to die naturally at home. Sometimes, though, the quality of the dying pet's life may make euthanasia a better option. People want to know "How will I know when the time comes?" Generally, the pet will give us the answer. More bad days than good days, unrelenting vomiting, diarrhea, crying, inability to move or have interest in moving, all may be signs. In a Pawspice program, euthanasia arrangements can be made ahead of time so that help and support is available when the owner has determined the time has come. Whether the pet is at home or in a hospital setting, a respectful, gentle atmosphere is provided to mourn the death of the pet and to make that death as peaceful and gentle as possible.
The veterinarian and the hospital staff providing a Pawspice program maintain a close and supportive relationship with the owner, to make sure the pet is doing well and the owner feels satisfied with the arrangement. The veterinarian and staff may know of grief support groups, pet loss groups or counseling for people who feel they might be of benefit.
The veterinary staff assigned to Pawspice knows each animal in the program, is trained in support techniques, and able advise the owners on an ongoing basis about care, or refer the question to the veterinarian if needed. The staff acts as liaison between the pet and the veterinarian and the owner and is an essential part of the Pawspice team.
Pawspice is a gentle, loving way for the owner, the veterinarian and staff to learn from the philosophy of hospice care used in human medicine, and to honor the special relationship between people and their pets. Pawspice is likely to become available at local clinics as veterinarians and their staff receive the training necessary to carry out the complete program.
Herbal Remedies
CAUTION: TREATING YOUR PET WITH HERBAL REMEDIES WITHOUT VETERINARY ADVICE MAY BE DANGEROUS!
"So, Doctor, what could possibly go wrong if I treat my pet with herbal medicines? I have a lot of knowledge; I've used these treatments myself for years."
This is the type of question veterinarians hear a lot these days because there is an increasing desire among pet owners and veterinarians to treat pets using non-traditional, alternative methods. These include such therapies as chiropractic, acupuncture, homeopathy, herbology, and naturopathy. They are part of a holistic approach to treating and preventing diseases.
Herbology uses leaves, roots and flowers of plants to promote healing. Homeopathy attempts to cure disease by giving very small doses of chemicals that cause the same signs and symptoms in a healthy person as are seen in the disease for which they are given. Homeopathy and herbology both use natural chemicals, most of which come from plants called "herbs", instead of synthetic chemicals for treating and preventing disease. Herbs, by definition, are plants used for medicinal purposes or for their smell or flavor.
Many sources, including the American Association of Holistic Veterinary Medicine, recommend the use of these plant remedies for preventing and treating disease. There are books available in bookstores and libraries. There is information on the internet. It is tempting and sounds safe to try to treat your pet holistically by yourselfbut don't be misled.
The chemicals in the plants used for remedies are potentially toxic. There are many examples of humans poisoning themselves using natural plant chemicals. Luckily, so far there are few examples of pet poisonings from herbal remedies, but the experience with humans tells us that the possibility of poisonings in animals is real.
It is extremely important to seek veterinary advice from a veterinarian with a background in holistic veterinary medicine before attempting to treat your pet with herbal or homeopathic remedies. Many veterinarians are studying and becoming knowledgeable about alternative treatments. There are quite a few veterinarians in our area who have been educating themselves on these topics.
Why do you need to consult a veterinarian about herbal remedies?
Because it's the best way to ensure your pet isn't inadvertently poisoned.
Do you know the right dose of herbal medications for your pet? Pets are not necessarily the same metabolically as people. What works for humans won't necessarily work for dogs, and almost certainly won't work for cats. Dosage and effect may change depending on the animal's species, size, age and many other factors. For many herbal and homeopathic drugs, there is often no information available for their use in animals because they have not been extensively tested for effectiveness and safety.
Did you know that many herbal or homeopathic remedies contain several biologically active chemicals? If they are used incorrectly with other homeopathic, herbal or traditional drugs, unwanted chemical reactions may occur. For example, naturally occurring chemicals found in herbal remedies may alter the metabolism of the liver, either increasing, or decreasing, its ability to work. Many drugs are cleared from the body by the liver. If its metabolic rate changes because of herbal remedies, there may be undesirable effects from the other medications, as the liver can no longer handle them appropriately.
The concentration of chemicals in plants can vary from year to year, and season to season. If the plants aren't correctly analyzed, the resulting products may vary in strength. Do you know which brands are reliable?
Your veterinarian knows your pet's physical history, other medications it may be taking, and other safely factors about your pet that should be considered before giving herbal remedies. S/he can recommend whether holistic treatment is appropriate for your pet. They know which brands of herbal and homeopathic medicines are most used and reliable in animals. Veterinarians who aren't practicing holistic medicine themselves will usually be able to refer you to a colleague who is.
Holistic medicine is available for your pets if you want it. Just be
sure to keep them safe by not attempting to treat them yourself. Remember
that your pets aren't necessarily the same medically as people. Get good
holistic veterinary advice for your canine and feline friends.
Barking Dogs
BARKING DOGS
Humane Societies, animal shelters and official animal control agencies receive many complaints and questions about barking dogs. Anyone who has ever had the experience of living near a dog who constantly barks or howls or who has tried to stop their own dog from continually barking or howling knows the frustration and anger that this situation can produce.
Santa Barbara City and County have both tried to cope with complaints by creating laws that make excessive noise by a person's dog illegal. Any animal that produces loud, unnecessary or repeated barking, sounds, cries or other noises is considered a public nuisance, if at least two other households are bothered by the noise. A series of legal steps can be taken to try to remedy the barking problem.
The process begins by reporting the barking to either City or County Animal Control. These agencies can respond in several ways. They will investigate the complaint and report the complaint to the owner of the animal. In some situations, they may inform the owner about voluntary training options for the dog. They may meet with all concerned parties, or set up voluntary mediation hearings. They may impose fines. As a final attempt to enforce the law, if other methods have failed, County or City Animal Control can refer to the District or City Attorney's office.
So why ARE these dogs barking? First, not all barking is bad. Barking can alert people to the presence of a stranger or some change in the environment, such as a fire, that is important for the pet's human companions to know.
Barking lets you know that your dog is distressed. If barking occurs when no one's home, during the night, or non stop, your dog is unhappy and trying to tell you so.
The main reason for nuisance barking is boredom. A well exercised dog that has lots of activities with the family and spends most of its time inside with the family is less likely to become a barking problem than one who is tied up outside, separated from the family in the yard, or ignored. Barking may be one of the only ways a lonely dog has to amuse himself. This is one of the easier types of barking to prevent because all that is needed is more activity and interaction with the dog.
Dogs, either alone or in groups, may consider themselves to be at the top of the pack and responsible for vigilantly guarding the home territory. These dogs are doing what they see as their job to the best of their ability. The owner needs to reestablish him or herself as the leader of the pack to control this type of barking.
If the dog barks when the owner goes out, she may be suffering from separation anxiety. If she barks at any little noise in the environment she may lack confidence and have the idea that alarm barking needs to be done in every situation because everything is dangerous. These dogs need to know that it's okay to be alone and that most things in the world aren't harmful.
If you are having, or know someone who has, a barking problem with a dog, the Santa Barbara Humane Society will gladly help you. We have a dog trainer on staff who can help you evaluate your particular situation, identify the type of barking that is occuring and make recommendations about solving the problem. There is no charge for this service.
Obesity in Pets
OBESITY
Health professions have identified obesity as a major problem nationwide, a problem that has many adverse health consequences. Veterinarians have noticed that this trend seems to have spilled over into the pet population as well.. We are nation with fat pets who will suffer the same kind of consequences seen in obese humans. How do your pets measure up? Here are two Body Condition Scoring Guides, one for cats, one for dogs:
CATS
Very thin
The ribs in a very thin cat are easily felt and visible on short haired cats as there is no fat covering them. If seen from above, the adult cat looks like an exaggerated hourglass. When viewed from the side, the abdomen is extremely tucked up. There isn't much muscle, the cat has bony prominences with no fat covering them on the hips and spine.
Underweight
The ribs are easily felt, they have little fat covering them. When viewed from above, underweight adult cats have a marked hourglass shape, and a markedly tucked up abdomen when viewed from the side. The tops of the lumbar vertebrae are visible and the pelvic bones are somewhat prominent. The abdominal fat pad is absent.
Ideal
The ribs are easy to feel, with a slight fat covering. When viewed from the side, the abdomen is somewhat tucked up. When viewed from above, the cat has a well proportioned waist, in fact the cat looks well proportioned everywhere. The abdominal fat pad is minimal.
Overweight
The ribs are hard to feel, they have a moderate fat cover .When viewed from the side the abdomen is obviously rounded. When viewed from above the back is slightly broadened. The abdominal fat pad is moderately large.
Obese
It is difficult to feel the ribs, they are buried under a heavy fat cover. Heavy fat deposits are seen over the back and base of the tail, the face and limbs. Seen from the side, the abdomen hangs down. Viewed from above, the waist is distended and the back is broad. The abdomen has extensive abdominal fat deposits.
DOG
Very thin
The ribs in a very thin dog are easily felt, there is no fat covering them. If seen from above, the adult dog looks like an exaggerated hourglass. When viewed from the side, the abdomen is extremely tucked up. There isn't much muscle, the dog has bony prominences easily seen from a distance with no fat covering them on the hips, shoulders, ribs and other areas.
Underweight
The ribs are easily felt, they have little fat covering them. The bony prominences are easy to feel, with very little fat over them. The base of the tail has a raised bony structure with little tissue between the skin and bones. When viewed from above, underweight adult dogs have a marked hourglass shape, and a markedly tucked up abdomen when viewed from the side.
Ideal
The ribs are easy to feel, with a slight fat covering. The base of the tail has a smooth look with a thin layer of fat between the skin and bones. The bony prominences, although not seen, have a slight covering of fat, and are easily felt. When viewed from the side, the abdomen is tucked up. When viewed from above, the dog has a well proportioned waist..
Overweight
The ribs are hard to feel, they have a moderate fat cover. The base of the tail is thickened with moderate amounts of tissue between the skin and bone. Bony prominences are coved with a moderate layer of fat, but can still be felt. When viewed from the side then is little or no abdominal tuck. When viewed from above the back is slightly broadened. May be noticeable fat deposits aver the lumbar area and the base of the tail.
Obese
It is very difficult to feel the ribs, they are buried under a heavy fat cover. Heavy fat deposits are present over the back and base of the tail, which is difficult to feel under a prominent layer of fat. The other bony prominences are covered by a moderate to thick layer of fat. Seen from the side, abdomen is distended and hanging down.. Viewed from above, the waist is wide and the back is markedly broad.
Does the slender size of the ideal pet surprise you? If your pet scores somewhere other than in the ideal range, either too thin or too fat, it would be a good idea to check with your veterinarian. He or she can help you improve your pet's health by working toward an ideal weight.
HOME HEALTH CHECK LIST
Each of us is concerned about our pets' health and well being. We want our pets to be in optimum, not just good, health. We want their coats to shine, eyes to be bright, breath fresh and clean and their energy levels to show they are in great condition. In addition to regular visits to the veterinarian, you can do a quick physical exam at home that will help you notice if something is going wrong with your pet. It is often surprisingly difficult to notice changes in your pets' health on a day to day basis. You may want to go through this checklist once a month at the time you are doing routine flea or worm control. Done regularly, it will also prepare your pet for a visit to the veterinarian because it will be used to most examination procedures. This isn't a complete physical exam and isn't meant to substitute for regular veterinary care, but I hope it will help you spot changes in your pet that you may want your veterinarian to check. Start slowly, be gentle, and if you need help for some procedures or don't know how to do them (such as opening your pet's mouth), be sure to have your veterinarian show you how. I hope you and your pet enjoy the examination time.
PET HEALTH CHECK LIST
YES NO
Overall appearance - From a few feet away
Happy, healthy
My pet moves easily
Each of my pets legs moves freely.
The right legs move as freely as the left legs.
The front legs move as easily as the back legs.
The neck is free and flexible.
The whole body is free and flexible
Weight - Look and feel
Weight appears normal.
By pressing gently, I can feel the ribs under the skin, but I can't see them when I look at the pet.
My pet is the same weight its always been.
My pet has a nicely shaped abdomen, it isn't distended like a balloon.
NOTE: Always be sure to feel a thick coated pet, fur can hide wight loss and gain.
Nose - Look
My pet's nose is clean and leathery without discharge.
Its nostrils look the same on both sides.
Eyes - Look
My pet's eyes are bright, clean, and clear without discharge, they're not red or squinting or cloudy.
My pet's eyes look the same on both sides.
The coat on my pet's face is its original color, it doesn't have reddish-brown tear stains.
Gums - Cautiously look and feel
My pet's gums are moist and a nice medium pink (if the mouth isn't naturally black) - not white, yellow or bluish.
Teeth- Cautiously look
My pet's teeth are white and clean, not broken or worn or covered with tartar.
The gums are medium pink, not red or receding, around the roots of the teeth.
Mouth - Cautiously look and smell
I can actually see inside the mouth, and everything looks like it belongs there.
My pet's mouth is free of lumps or sores.
The tongue seems to rest normally in my pet's mouth.
My pet's breath smells good.
Ears - Gently feel, look and smell
My pet's ears are clean, inside and out,
with no crusty, scaly skin on the outer ear,
and no yellow, brown or white discharge in the ear canal.
Its ears are a nice skin color, not bright pink or bright red.
My pet's ears smell fine.
The ears look the same on both sides.
Coat - Look and feel
My pet has a shiny coat, without flakes, fleas or ticks, bare spots or mats.
My pet seldom scratches.
When I feel my pet's skin, there are no scabs or sores.
The skin feels pliable and seems to fit appropriately for the breed.
The skin isn't dry, thick or hanging, it doesn't look like "elephant skin" .
Body check - Look at and feel the entire pet
My pet's body is smooth, there are no lumps, bumps or swellings either on or under the skin.
The pet feels the same on both sides.
Pay particular attention to:
Mammary glands
The nipples and mammary region along the underside of the chest and abdomen are free of lumps, bumps or swellings.
Testicles
If not neutered, feel the testicles. The area is smooth with no lumps, bumps or swellings.
Anal region - Look and, from a distance, smell
My pet has a nice clean anal area.
The area is smooth without lumps, bumps or swelling.
If your pet is female, the vaginal area is clean and without discharge or foul odor.
The anal area is its original color, there are no reddish-brown stains from licking.
Feet - Look and feel
The pads are clean with no cuts, foxtails or sores present.
The nails are relatively short, not long and curling.
The feet are their original color, there are no reddish-brown stains from licking.
Breathing - Look
My pet breathes freely and easily.
My pet doesn't gasp or work hard to breath.
My pet seldom sneezes or coughs.
Eating
My pet's appetite seems normal, without being excessively hungry
or being picky, or refusing to eat.
Drinking
My pet drinks a normal amount, without seeming to be excessively thirsty.
Digestion
My pet eats without effort.
My pet digestion seems fine,
it doesn't vomit
or have diarrhea,
or constipation,
or, unusually foul smelling gas.
Urination
My pet urinates normally.
My pet doesn't urinate more often then previously.
My pet is well housebroken, it seldom or never has "accidents".
Defecation
My pet defecates normally without straining.
My pet has firm, formed, stools.
My pet has normal appearing stools without blood or lots of mucus.
My pet is well housebroken, it seldom or never has "accidents".
Energy level
My pet seems to have its usual energy level, it doesn't need to stop to rest more frequently than usual or avoid exercise it used to love.
My pet can relax, it isn't restless or hyperactive.
Hearing, sight and smell
My pet seems to hear, to smell and to see as well as ever.
Behavior
My pet is behaving normally.
My pet is sleeping as much as usual.
My pet is as friendly and well adjusted as usual.
Other
Older Pets
OLDER PETS
We are frequently asked about the advantages and disadvantages of adopting older dogs and cats.
Often, older pets become available for adoption because of problems within the household, such as a death or divorce, rather than because of problems with the dog itself. Their maturity allows you to choose a pet whose personality, size, activity level, coat length and training can be matched to your lifestyle. There are no unpleasant surprises like when that cute, tiny new puppy suddenly becomes the size of a Great Dane.
An older dog may already be housebroken and probably will know house rules. An older dog may be trained. Older dogs are perfect candidates for dog obedience classes and activities with their new owner. An older cat will probably know how to use the litterbox. It is a myth that older cats and dogs can not learn.
An older pet may take longer to adapt to its new home. Although most older dogs do not require the constant attention demanded by a puppy, they may require patience, sensitivity and understanding as they learn to adapt to your family's needs and activities. Some may have had negative experiences that take time to modify. Since they are adults, you don't have the opportunity to influence the pets early behavior.
To make the transition to your home easier for your mature pet, plan to spend a lot of time with it during the first two weeks and especially during the first forty eight hours after you take it home. Show the pet where the food, clean water, cat litter box and sleeping area is located. Take the older dog out every two hours while the household is awake, until housebreaking is established. Plenty of supervision is needed during the first six to twelve weeks as the pet makes those first important adjustments to your home. You may continue to notice the pet relaxing and adjusting for as long as a year.
As with puppies and kittens, older pets may require increased veterinary care. They should be seen at least every other year by their veterinarian. Older pets should be protected against extreme temperatures and should be kept on a regular schedule of exercise, feeding and vaccinations.
One of the most important things one can do for mature pets is to prevent obesity. Fat puts excess weight on the bones and joints and makes movement more cumbersome and difficult. You may notice your older pet becoming stiff and moving more slowly. Check with your veterinarian to see if medications can be prescribed to make movement easier.
You may notice that your older pet has a drier coat. Regular brushing stimulates oil production, cleans the skin and removes loose hair and dandruff. Brushing your pet can be a pleasure for both of you.
Older pets may develop haziness in their eyes. This does not necessarily mean they are going blind or are developing cataracts, it is often a normal change that occurs with aging. You may notice your older pet squinting in bright light. They are often somewhat sensitive to bright lights due to changes in the iris.
Older pets may develop partial, or occasionally, total, deafness. If your pet is having hearing problems, be sure to protect it from environmental hazards.
Don't forget to care for your pet's teeth. If you smell bad breath, or see bleeding, reddened gums, have your veterinarian check the teeth. Your pet may look sadly at its plate after coming up to eat, then back away. This can be a sign of a dental problem. Owners report that having dental work done on their pets in many cases has seemed to make the pet much younger.
There are many older pets available at shelters. Don't overlook their wonderful ability to be faithful companions. They are just waiting for a chance to show they can fit into your household.
Visit Your Vet
VISITING YOUR VET
How often should my pet go to the vet? The answer to this question depends on the pet's age, health and behavior. Most veterinarians prefer to see puppies and kittens every three to four weeks until they are six months old and your adult pet at least once a year. Older pets may need to be seen more often. This schedule allows the veterinarian to learn how your pet normally looks and behaves and makes it easier to spot abnormalities when they occur.
For convenience, you may want to time your visit to the veterinarian to coincide with your adult pet's annual vaccines or examination for parasites such as intestinal worms, fleas and ticks. Puppies and kittens should visit the vet for a basic health check and to receive their initial puppy or kitten shots and the recommended boosters. In addition, puppies and kittens should be wormed every 3-4 weeks until they are 6 months old. Preventive dentistry is increasingly recognized as being important to your pet's well being.
The veterinarian will examine your pet focusing on how it looks, smells, feels and behaves. He or she may want to do laboratory tests to evaluate parts of the pet that we can not see or touch such as the heart, blood, or bladder. Make the most out of your visit, make a list of questions to ask before you arrive at the veterinarian's. The veterinarian can advise you not only about medical health, but also about behavior, nutrition, exercise physiology and many other topics. The veterinarian's office is good place to get advice about flea and tick products, learn how to brush your cat's teeth, or trim its nails.
If you adopted your pet at the Santa Barbara Humane Society, it has received its vaccines (check your paperwork to find out when the next ones are due), gotten a physical and temperament exam from the veterinarian and staff and is spayed or neutered. We recommend that you and your new pet develop a relationship with a veterinarian who offers the full range of services so that you can continue to maintain your happy, healthy, loving bond.
Getting Spots Out
OUT, OUT, DAMN SPOT
or,
WHAT TO DO AFTER YOUR PET'S "ACCIDENT"
Your pet has sprayed, urinated or defecated on your floor, furniture or other belongings. Now you have two problems. First, what do you do with the pet? Second, what do you do with the mess left behind?
There are five steps involved in retraining a pet who is no longer housebroken or using the litterbox. Each step is important; an integral part of the plan. Do them all. We'll start by briefly mentioning the three steps that involve the pet directly.
Before you start retraining your pet, a trip to the veterinarian is a good idea. You need to make sure that a physical or emotional problem (like a bladder infection or separation anxiety) isn't causing the inappropriate elimination. Physical and emotional problems such as these must be solved before you will be able to follow the next step -- re-housebreaking your dog or re-litterbox training your cat. If spraying is the problem, your vet can offer behavioral advice or medical treatment. Once the pet has a clean bill of health, you can start to retrain.
First, make the areas unattractive and/or unavailable to the pet. For example, you may want to try using a vinyl, flannel backed tablecloth to cover the bed, these are usually unattractive to your pet, plus they are cheap and machine washable.
Second, make the appropriate area, the one you want your pet to use, attractive. For example, an older cat may need a litter box with lower sides for easier access.
Third, use positive reinforcement during the retraining process and once the pet has relearned the desired behavior. Don't make your pet afraid to eliminate. Elimination is good, as long as the location is right.
It will take at least a week to retrain your pet. Use patience and lots of encouragement.
Trainers and behaviorists can give you in-depth advice about making areas unattractive and/or unavailable to your pet, and making the area you want the pet to use inviting. They can also direct you in how use positive reinforcement correctly. At the Santa Barbara Humane Society we have people on staff who will be glad to assist you with these questions.
Now, to the question that came into your mind as soon as you saw the problem and the two steps in the process that don't involve your pet, but are essential to the success of your retraining program. What do you do about the stinky, messy stain and wetness left behind? How do you successfully remove these odors and stains so that your belongings are returned to their original condition and don't act as scent markers tempting the pet to go there again?
You must first identify and then clean all old and new accident spots. These two steps are essential in the retraining process.
With a fresh wet spot, first, soak up as much urine as possible using a pad of newspapers and paper towels. Place a thick layer of paper towels on the wet spot, then cover it with a thick layer of newspaper. Stand on the pad you have created for about a minute. Remove the pad, then repeat the process until the area is as dry as possible - barely damp. The more fresh urine you soak up, the easier it is to remove the odor. Rinse thoroughly with clean, cool water, then repeat the blotting pad procedure.
If there are old, dried spots, you will be able to find many of them using your nose and eyes. For those you can't smell or see, a black-light bulb or black light can act as your nose and eyes. Turn out all the lights, turn on the black light, then look around the suspect area. Old urine areas will glow. Once they are identified, you can draw lightly around them with white chalk or mark the borders with masking tape so you can find then later. For cats that spray, be sure to look on draperies and cat perches higher then ground level.
Color fast carpets and upholstery have similar cleaning requirements. Start by rinsing thoroughly with clean, cool water. Do not use ammonia or vinegar or other cleaners with strong odors. They encourage your pet to reuse that spot by reinforcing the urine scent in that area. If cleaners or chemicals have been used on the area previously, they must be completely rinsed away before neutralizing cleaners will work. This is because the enzymatic cleaners you will be using will attempt to remove the old cleaners and chemicals before they start to work on the urine or fecal material. If you aren't sure the items are color fast or that you should use water or enzymatic products on your carpet or furnishings, you may want to seek professional help.
To remove old or heavy stains, as well as old chemicals, you may want to consider renting an extractor, wet vac, or a steam cleaner that can be used without steam. The heat from a steam cleaner's steam will permanently bond the odor and stain into man-made fibers--the opposite of your goal. These machines are work similarly to vacuum cleaners. They force clean water through your carpet, then suck the dirty water back out again. Follow the instructions for the machines carefully, except do not use any chemicals. They work better with plain water and the goal is to remove chemicals and prepare a clean surface for the pet odor neutralizer.
Once the area is really clean, use one of the better pet odor neutralizers available at pet supply stores. The pet store will be glad to tell you which ones work the best. The neutralizers can be put in the machine and forced through the carpet or fabric, or hand sprayed or poured on. Test the affected surface area for staining, and read and follow the instructions. If the area still looks stained after it has dried completely after the extracting and neutralizing, try a good carpet stain remover.
Unfortunately, f the urine has soaked down into the pad under the carpet, you may need to remove and replace that portion of the carpet and padding, because getting the odor out may be impossible.
To clean washable items in the washing machine, use your regular detergent plus one pound of baking soda. Then, air dry the items. If you can still see the stain or smell urine, rewash the item and add an enzymatic cleaner. Follow the directions carefully.
As you can see, the whole process is rather tedious and time consuming, but is the best way to clean the "accident zone". It is an essential part of the process of successfully retraining your pet to eliminate in the correct area, so you can feel happy about having your canine or feline companion in the house.
Cat Procreation
WHERE DO ALL THOSE KITTENS COME FROM ?
Why is it so difficult to slow pet overpopulation? There are low-fee clinics and programs such as The Santa Barbara Humane Society's Clinic and Spay / Neuter Month. There are other low-fee clinics, and the services of local veterinarians. It is illegal for a shelter to adopt out an animal that is not spayed or neutered. The public becomes more aware of pet overpopulation every year and many have responded by getting their pets neutered. Even with all these attempts to slow overpopulation, euthanasia of healthy, unwanted cats is still the leading cause of death in this species.
I thought it might be interesting to take a look at the female cat's unique reproductive cycle to explain some of the difficulty in decreasing the feline side of the pet overpopulation problem.
The female cat's fertility has been admired for centuries. For example, the Egyptian goddess, Bastet, who was worshipped as the goddess of fertility, was usually portrayed as a cat. At the extremes, cats have been known to successfully deliver kittens at a very old age (26 years), to deliver exceptionally large litters (19 kittens), and to have 4, or more litters, every year. Cats share with rodents and rabbits the ability to have multiple pregnancies within a single reproductive season.
The average cat's highest reproductive years are between 1.5 and 8 years of age, with an average two to three litters per year and an average of three to four kittens per litter (although it may be as few as one, or as many as 15. Most female cats will have kittens for about 10 years in a natural situation. Although older cats will tend to have smaller, and fewer litters, and are more likely to have abortions and stillbirths than younger ones, most older cats will have successful pregnancies.
Female cats have heat cycles that are based on the season of the year. In the Northern Hemisphere, the average cat will begin to cycle anytime after the winter solstice, when the days begin to get longer. She will have her first heat period in January or February, and will continue to "come into heat" every two weeks until late September unless she gets pregnant, has a false pregnancy, is spayed, or has a serious illness. Some will continue to cycle as late as November. The peak season is February-June (or July, in more northern regions). Interestingly, Siamese cats tend to cycle year-round, while long-haired cats seldom do.
The average female cat reaches puberty between 5 and 9 months of age. The exceptional female cat may experience her first heat period as early as 3.5 months of age, or any time after reaching 4.4 pounds. This means that kittens born in the spring and summer and early fall of the previous year will all start to come into heat in January and February
Other factors besides age, weight and time of year affect the onset of puberty. They are breed, social environment, health, physical condition and nutritional status. Domestic shorthairs become sexually mature earlier than domestic longhairs. Purebreds reach puberty later than mixed breeds, with Persians being among the slowest to develop, and Burmese frequently cycling at 3.5 4.5 months old. Outdoor cats tend to cycle sooner than indoor cats. Multiple cats households, or being around a tom cat or other cats in heat will speed up the onset of the heat period. Sickness, heavy parasite loads and poor nutrition will slow the process.
Cats are polygamous. Although it is rare for one to form a long-term bond with a mate, they often have a preference for a certain partner. A female can mate with more than one tom during the heat cycle. This may result in littermates with different fathers.
Once the kittens are born, nursing may or may not suppress the heat cycle. A female cat may come back into heat any time from the second week of nursing to 8 weeks after weaning. If she loses the litter before they are born or within 3 days of the birth, she will be back in heat in about a week. 10% of pregrant female cats come into heat between the third and sixth week of pregnancy. Although it is rare, the pregnant female cat can be pregnant with fetuses of different ages, from separate matings in different heat cycles.
As you can see, the female cat is an efficient and formidable reproducer.
It becomes easy to see how a single cat can have 50 to 150 kittens over
her reproductive life. When we consider the best ways to decrease pet overpopulation,
the animal's ability to reproduce must be taken into account. The cat's
biology is a continual challenge in trying to overcome pet overpopulation.
Pet Alzheimer's
Does My Pet Have Alzheimer's?
Because of the improvements in pet care, veterinary medicine and nutrition, dogs and cats are living longer. Since they age at a faster rate than we do, the majority of us will have to face the ageing process in our pets and deal with the mental and physical consequences of old age. Today, there is a higher percentage of older pets in the pet population than ever before.
How old is a "senior" or "geriatric" dog or cat? A pet is generally defined as "senior" when it is seven or eight years old, but it is important to remember that this definition varies according a number of factors, including nutrition, size, breed, species and lifestyle. For example, the giant dog breeds, such as Great Dane or Irish Wolfhound, are considered to be geriatric far earlier than the Miniature Poodle or Jack Russell Terrier. Cats For cats, lifestyle and nutrition affect aging most, they don't seem to show the same breed related differences in aging that dogs do.
Because of these changes in the animal population, more and more people are presenting pets to their veterinarians with age-related problem behaviors. Although aging itself is not a disease, it causes inevitable changes in biological functions within the body that make it more difficult for the pet to handle internal and external stresses.
"Cognitive dysfunction" is a term used to describe an age-related neurodegenerative disorder that causes a decline in the brain's abilities, including those involved in learning and memory. It has symptoms and causes similar to Alzheimer's dementia in humans.
The types of behavior changes reported by people whose pets have cognitive dysfunction are such things as:
1) Being disoriented. The pet seems to have trouble recognizing familiar people, places and objects. This is often the first sign noticed, and may be intermittent at first. An example is a dog who urinates in the house because its been waiting at the wrong door to be let out.
2) Changing social and environmental interactions. The pet shows decreased enthusiasm greeting the owners, doesn't seem to want to play as much with people or other pets, becomes irritable, responds slowly to commands. The first thing you might notice is a change in the pet's reaction to family members. This can be distressing, especially if aggression is part of the change. There may be a change in status between dogs in the same household, the top dog may suddenly or slowly lose its position.
3) Changing sleep/wake cycle. The pet's daytime naps are getting longer and longer, and the length of time the pet sleeps at night is getting shorter and shorter. The pet's sleep is easily disturbed. These changes in the sleep/wake cycle may be hard to notice, especially if the pet doesn't sleep in the same room as the owner.
4) Breakdown in house-training. The pet who was reliably house-trained begins having accidents. This can be linked to disorientation and losing the ability to remember previously learned responses.
When a pet is taken to a veterinarian for evaluation, the veterinarian must first establish whether the condition is truly age-related and not a continuation of a former problem. For example, consider a pet that has had poor bladder control when left alone for long periods. Now, due to a change in the owner's life, the pet is being left alone more frequently and for longer periods of time than ever before, with the result that it is urinating in the house more. This cannot be considered an age-related problem. Conversely, a pet that has slept peacefully through the night for eleven years, and is now wandering restlessly at two a.m., can be.
The veterinarian will ask questions about changes in the pet's routine, daily activities, environment and behavioral history as well as questions about medical details such as vomiting, diarrhea, and other symptoms. A physical examination will be performed and basic laboratory screening such as blood work, will likely be requested. This is to rule out any other physical cause for the problem behavior and to screen for underlying contributing medical problems.
Once cognitive dysfunction is diagnosed, there are a variety of things that can be done to treat it.
First is behavioral therapy. Behavioral therapy may include such things as a strict routine or changing the pet's environment to decrease confusion.
Second is nutritional support. The diet may be supplemented with antioxidants. The antioxidants are believed to help the brain function and recover better as well as prevent further deterioration.
Third is appropriate drugs. There are a number of drugs currently available that are very effective in treating cognitive dysfunction, as well as some that are currently being tested. These drugs can cause improvements in a pet's mental functioning just as they do in human Alzheimer's patients.
Once the pet is diagnosed with cognitive dysfunction, your veterinarian will give a prognosis; that is, tell you what to expect. The prognosis is based on how long the behavioral signs have been present, how severe they are, the presence or absence of other medical problems, and your definition of quality of life for your individual pet. Although it can't be cured, the earlier cognitive dysfunction is diagnosed, treated and managed, the earlier the process can be slowed down, and the longer your pet can remain a happy member of your household.
Early Age Spay/Neuter
Early Age Spay Neuter
Are you aware that ten to twenty-five percent of our nation's pets are destroyed annually because there are no owners to care for them? Many dedicated people and organizations have been working for years to attempt to alleviate this problem, but pet overpopulation continues.
In the past, humane societies and animal shelters have adopted out puppies and kittens with various types of "return for spay or neuter" policies. Unfortunately, according to a recent nationwide American Humane Association study, less than sixty percent return for their mandatory spay or neuter surgery, despite notification, public appeals, monetary incentives and signed contracts promising to spay or neuter the pet. Prior to the emplementation of early age spay/neuter, the Santa Barbara Humane Society had a fantastic return for spaying and neutering - 95% of adoption puppies and kittens, thanks to our excellent educational outreach and staff follow-up.
In an effort to decrease animal overpopulation, the American Veterinary Medicine Association, the California Veterinary Medicine Association, the American Humane Association and other statewide and national veterinary and humane groups are advocating pre-adoption, "early age" spaying and neutering for shelter and humane society so the pets can go home with new owners and never contribute to the animal overpopulation problem. Early age spays and neuters are done no earlier than six weeks old and before the pet is four months old.
Is this a new idea? NO! The idea of early age spays and neuters is an old one. At the beginning of the twentieth century, many veterinarians advocated spaying dogs between three and six months old or even before weaning, and neutering male dogs as young as one month old. Unfortunately, problems developed with young puppies and kittens with the anesthesia available at that time. Gradually, it became traditional to spay or neuter dogs and cats at five and half to six months of age.
What's wrong with waiting until five and a half to six months to spay or neuter your dog or cat? Unfortunately, waiting for a pet to be five and a half to six months old can lead to unwanted pregnancies. For example, a cat comes in heat according to the season rather than chronological age. A kitten born in September may come into heat in January, at four months of age. A kitten born
in March may also come into heat for the first time in January, but she will be nine months old. The occurence of first heat in dogs is more predicable, but there are still sufficient differences between large and small breeds to make guessing the date of the first heat cycle risky. Male dogs and cats also reach puberty at slightly different ages.
Does it surprise you to learn that because of pet overpopulation the correct age to spay and neuter and the effects of spaying and neutering are a hot area for research? For the last twenty-five years, and especially the last fifteen years, veterinarians have been studying the effects of early age spaying and neutering. They have found that there appears to be little difference between pets spayed or neutered at early ages compared with those spayed or neutered at puberty, except that pets spayed or neutered early have a taller, rangier build and remain more active and playful throughout their lives than those spayed or neutered at five and a half to six months. These differences are certainly acceptable to most people.
Despite objections from those within the veterinary community who are overly traditional, there is very little modern reliable scientific evidence showing that the traditional age to spay or neuter your pet is the optimum age to spay or neuter your pet.
But isn't surgery and anesthesia still more dangerous for young puppies and kittens? Anesthetic and surgical techniques have been perfected so that early age surgeries are routinely safe. The surgery itself is not difficult for the experienced veterinarian; tissues are generally smaller, with less fat and a smaller blood supply. This means that the risk of hemorrhage (always a possibility, especially with dogs in heat) is minimal. Puppies and kittens recover very rapidly after surgery; they are eating in about fifteen minutes and playing in about an hour. Many thousands of animals have been spayed and neutered at early ages during the last twenty-five years, with no ill effects, and to the benefit of the entire pet population.
This is why the Santa Barbara Humane Society has joined others in the forefront of animal welfare groups and veterinary medicine and is now performing early age spays and neuters on adoption animals. No animal leaves the Santa Barbara Humane Society unaltered and able to add to the pet overpopulation problem. We are also performing early age spays and neuters for the public,
upon request.
So, how has it been going? We have now performed hundreds of early spays and neuters and are extremely pleased with the recovery time, the healing and all the veterinary aspects of the surgeries. People adopting puppies and kittens are surprised, but glad, to discover that their new pet has already been spayed or neutered; and they don't have to bother with scheduling surgeries or dealing with additional paperwork later. Our early age spay and neuter program is certainly a success and one in which I am pleased to be participating.
Emergency Preparation
Emergency Preparedness for your Pet
Here are some questions and answers taken from The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA)textbook on Animals in Disaster Awareness and Preparedness. How many can you answer correctly?
True or false?
1. Law enforcement and firefighters are ultimately responsible for the survival and well-being of pets.
2. Permanent identification or identification tags and collars should be on animals at all times.
3. Current photos of your pets should be kept in your disaster kit and sent to an out-of-state contact.
4. Personal safety must be considered before the safety of animals.
5. Turning your pets loose in a disaster increases their chance of survival.
6. Pets lost after a disaster can find their way home using olfactory (smell) or visual cues.
7. Disasters are usually predictable and preventable.
8. It is best to keep your disaster kit in the kitchen.
Multiple choice
9. How often should rabies vaccinations be repeated? (For most species of animals)
a. Twice per year
b. Every five years
c. Every Ten years
d. Every one or three years
10.If you are asked to evacuate, which one of the
following actions is safest for your pets?
a. Tie pets up outside
b. Let pets loose
c. Leave pets in your home
d. Take pets with you.
Answers
1. False In an emergency or disaster you are ultimately responsible for the survival and well-being of your pet. Are you ready with an emergency response plan and kits not only for yourself, but also for your small four legged friends your cats, dogs, bunnies, birds, etc?
2. True All pets should wear identification at all times. They should have tags with your name, address and telephone number, as well as a friend or relative's telephone number.
They may also be micro chipped, freeze marked or tattooed. Birds should have leg bands, microchips or tattoos. The information on these types of identification should be included in a national registry so it can be retrieved easily if necessary.
3. True Current photographs of your pet help with identifaction after a disaster. Someone out of state should also have current photos.
4. True Never put yourself or others at risk. Do not attempt to rescue your pet if your life or health or that of others may be place in danger.
5. False Leaving your pets behind in a disaster may decrease their chances of survival. However, if you must leave your pets, leave them CRATED IN THE SAFEST ROOM IN YOUR HOME. Leave notes and labels saying how many pets you have, where they are, and how you can be contacted. Label the crates with both the pet's identification and yours. Leave the name of your veterinarian. Leave water in a bowl that won't tip over. If the pet is on special food or medication, leave that, too.
If you are leaving an exotic pet, leave warnings and handling instructions, especially if the pet is poisonous. Put exotic pets in a separate labelled room in case problems arise.
6. False Once the disaster is over, familiar surroundings may look and smell strangely. Pets become disoriented and may not be able to find their way home.
7. False Disasters are not preventable or predictable. Every year two to three million people are affected by disasters. They can be cataclysmic events such as floods, hurricanes or earthquakes, or individual family disasters. In the US there are more than 150,000 household fires; 10,000 violent thunderstorms; 5,000 floods; 800 tornadoes; many forest fires and several hurricanes and several hurricanes and earthquakes every year.
A little planning goes a long way toward saving reducing injuries, death and suffering to your and your pets.
8. False Do not store disaster kits in the kitchen or garage. These are often the areas where fires strike. They should be easily retrievable and in rodent proof containers. Check the contents twice a year when the clocks change for daylight savings. Rotate the food every two months.
9. d Depending on your pets' age and vaccination history, rabies vaccines are given every one or three years.
10. d Take your pets with you in a disaster.
Hairballs
HAIRBALLS
Its spring! With all the shedding going on, it's time for questions about cats and hairballs!
A hairball is a loose mat of hairs that can be as small as just a few hairs to larger than a softball.
Cats normally swallow hair while grooming. We've all heard the "tongue acts like a hairbrush" explanation. The thicker and longer the cat's coat and the more fastidious the cat is about grooming, the more likely we are to see hairballs. The hair is usually passed in the stool or is vomited up. The most commonly seen event associated with grooming and hair swallowing is periodic gagging and retching, due primarily to hair caught in the back of the throat or upper esophagus. Hair that reaches the stomach can become covered with mucus. In that case you may see retching, then vomiting up, of these mucus covered hair plugs. They do not usually contain food or bile, just hair and mucus. This is a minor problem and can be considered a normal part of grooming and hair swallowing.
The medical term for a large hairball is trichobezoar (TRIK-o-BEE-zor), one of nearly everyone's favorite funny veterinary terms. A trichobezoar is a large hard mass of hair and minerals that began as a small hairball. They are not as common as the smaller type, but are more likely to cause a problem when they occur. The signs will be more severe than the normal retching and vomiting seen with small hairballs. If they are large enough, they can prevent food from passing out of the stomach or through the intestinal tract. In the stomach, they can cause vomiting: in the intestinal tract, they can cause cramping, anorexia, and pain and inflammation for the day or so it takes the mass to pass. If they are too large to pass, or the cat has an underlying medical problem that prevents them from passing, they may need to be removed surgically.
Sometimes people attribute any illness their cat seems to have to hairballs, and whenever the kitty seems to "not feel right", they dose it with hairball medication. The trouble with this is that, if the cat is vomiting for any other reason, the hair in the stomach will come up, too. The tendency is for the person to blame the hair for the problem, when it was just along for the ride. This misperception may prevent the cat from receiving needed veterinary treatment promptly.
Even though hairballs usually aren't dangerous, they are rather disgusting, and it's smart to try to minimize their formation. Groom your kitty frequently, at least once a week. Hair on the comb or brush is hair that won't be swallowed. Remove mats and burrs as soon as possible so that they won't be swallowed whole and act as object that will trap more hair. You may need the assistance of a groomer or veterinarian to de-mat your cat for you.
If your cat seems to be hacking up hairballs more often than once every few weeks or so, you may want to try one of the lubricant medications to help hair pass through, or one of the "hairball preventive" kitty treats. However, it's important to remember that many normal cats are overtreated for hairballs with oils, laxative, lubricants, etc. on a daily basis for no good reason. If your cat seems to need daily treatment, a visit to the veterinarian is a wise move.
If the hairball problem is ongoing and your veterinarian recommends it, you may want to feed a hairball preventive diet. These diets contain extra fiber to allegedly help brush the hairball through the intestinal tract.
CAUTION: DO NOT TRY TO ADMINISTER MINERAL OIL to your cat. It can go down the wrong way and end up in the lungs rather than the stomach.
The most important point is that if your cat is vomiting persistently or acting sick in any other way, don't automatically assume it's due to hairballs. Have the kitty examined by your veterinarian right away.
How Your Vet Diagnoses
How Your Veterinarian Decides What is Wrong
If you have ever taken your pet to the veterinarian because of a specific complaint, you may have been surprised by the number of questions you were asked. Some of these questions may have seemed unrelated to the complaint, but they are all part of the diagnostic process. There is no mystery or magic to this process, one begins by looking at the widest possible array of possibilities and then narrowing the field down to identify the specific problem bothering your pet.
Say your pet is having trouble urinating. The veterinarian will start with a complete medical history and a physical exam. The physical exam begins from the first moment the veterinarian sees the pet in the exam room. The pet's species, breed, sex, and age will immediately bring possibilities to the veterinarian's mind. In our example pet with the urinary problem, a Dalmatian is more likely to have urinary stones, a puppy or kitten is more likely to have a congenital problem, an adult unneutered tom cat is more likely to have feline urinary syndrome, and an older unneutered dog may have a prostate problem which wouldn't occur in a neutered male.
The veterinarian will then proceed to ask you a series of questions to indicate which diagnoses are more likely, and which diagnoses can be ruled out, based on your answers to the questions. In our example, the veterinarian will probably ask if the pet is straining and seems in pain, or has been urinating frequently or excessively. He or she will also ask about bowel movements, since a constipated animal may appear to have a urinary tract problem.
The veterinarian will continue questioning to determine whether the problem involves the whole body or just one specific area. You will be asked if your pet has been eating regularly and normally. You might have thought your pet was just less active because of old age and not realized it was a symptom of the urinary problem. Other questions may ask about the pet's activity level, coat or body condition. Although these questions may seem unrelated to the urinary problem, they can help to establish whether the problem is body wide or local.
At the end of the history the veterinarian develops a mental list called a differential diagnosis. The list is based on the history that you provide and consists of a series of likely possibilities as to the cause of your particular pet's medical problem. The next step is to continue the physical exam to narrow the differential diagnosis list down from perhaps several dozen possibilities to no more than four or five.
If at the end of the history and physical exam, the exact cause of your pet's problem hasn't been identified, the veterinarian will probably recommend diagnostic testing. The recommendation for diagnostic tests is not a frivolous. Diagnostic tests allow the veterinarian to determine which of several likely diagnoses is the actual cause of your pet's problem. The correct diagnosis allows the veterinarian to select the correct treatment for your pet and give you accurate information about the prognosis. The veterinarian selects the tests that give the greatest amount of information while causing the least risk for the pet.
The choice of tests is also based on the veterinarian's experience, the individual pet, and the owner's wishes. A veterinarian with lots of experience in a particular field (such as urinary tract disease) may feel comfortable enough with the physical exam and history to diagnose a bladder infection and prescribe treatment. A veterinarian who has graduated recently, is seeing your pet for the first time, or who sees something in the physical exam or history to raise a question may want to see the results of diagnostic tests before making a decision.
The decision to test may also be influenced by weighing the benefit of the results versus the risk of the tests and the owner's financial concerns. The pet's age, the expense of the tests, and the likelihood that knowing exactly what the problem is will directly benefit the patient are a few of the things that need to be taken into account. For example, if it is likely that an eighteen year old, diabetic cat has an untreatable, malignant tumor, and the test will cost $2,000, the veterinarian has to consider whether the test results will extend or improve the quality of the pet's life in a significant enough manner to recommend performing the test. In this case, the test probably wouldn't be recommended. In this case, non-invasive tests, such as ultrasound, may be recommended to be certain of the diagnosis, especially if finances are not a concern.
The veterinarian will discuss the reasoning for his or her recommendations with the owner and together they will decide what tests should be performed. Sometimes, the results of tests are inconclusive or point to the necessity for more tests to narrow the differential diagnosis down to knowing exactly what is wrong with your pet. When your veterinarian continues to recommend additional testing, it is to make sure that the treatment being given is appropriate, correct, and optimal for the re-establishment of your pet's good health.
Inappropriate Elimination
Eliminate The Problem
The most common behavioral reason for relinquishing cats to humane societies and animal shelters is inappropriate elimination. The most common behavior problem in cats seen by veterinarians and behaviorists is inappropriate elimination. So, what is this behavior and what can we do about it?
When indoor cats urinate or defecate anywhere other than the litterbox, furniture and carpeting are damaged, the area smells and sanitation suffers. As anyone who has tried to deal with this behavior knows, trying to convince the cat to stop using the wrong place can be very frustrating for the owner.
Elimination is a normal and natural behavior. When a cat lives outdoors, anyplace is a good place as long as the neighbors don't mind. The cat finds loose soil, urinates or defecates, then, usually, covers it up. Indoor cats are easy to housebreak: provide a suitable substrate and the cat immediately knows what to do.
Spraying is a normal type of territorial marking. Most cats spray by backing up to a suitable vertical surface (such as a wall, drape, chair or human leg), waving or jerking their tail and emitting a spray of urine. Spraying is especially common at doorways leading into and out of the house, and other high traffic areas. It is believed that the smell of the urine may make the cat feel more comfortable in its territory, announce its presence to other cats, and help to attract sexually active cats during the breeding season.
Although usually done by unneutered males, neutered males, and neutered or unneutered females may also spray. Cats in multi-cat households or neighborhoods with lots of cats (especially if the other cats are unneutered and its breeding season) have an increased tendency to spray. Sometimes a move to a new house, a new pet in household, the addition, or loss of a family member, strangers, thunder and other storm sounds, can trigger urine spraying . Dr. Benjamin Hart, a noted animal behaviorist, suggests that some cats may also spray if punished or ignored, and this is why owners come back from vacation to find urine on the bed, on their clothes or in their shoes.
The first step in solving litterbox problems is a trip to the veterinarian. Anything that makes elimination painful, such as a lower urinary tract infection, diarrhea, constipation, impacted anal glands or lower bowel problems, can cause a cat to associate the pain with the litterbox and lead to selection of another site for elimination. If no medical problems are found, the problem is assumed to be behavioral. If there is any doubt, your veterinarian can help you determine whether the cat is urinating to relieve itself or spraying. Refusing to use the litterbox for normal urination and defecation requires different methods of treatment from those used for spraying problems.
If the problem is identifyed as urinating or defecating outside the litter box, not spraying, you and your veterinarian will probably want to consider whether something in the environment has changed, especially if the cat normally uses the litterbox well, then suddenly stops using it. In general, cats that eliminate outside the litterbox are usually dissatisfied with its cleanliness, contents or location.
A clean litterbox in a low traffic area should be attractive to the cat. If the cat is eliminating close to the litterbox, but not in it, it probably means the the box is the wrong size, or it isn't clean enough. Each box needs to be large enough (approximately 12X16X6 inches) for the cat to move easily. Soiled litter should be removed regularly , at least daily, and the box should be washed with liquid dish detergent and and rinsed very well, every week or two. Cats often do not like the smell of litter box deodorants, or strong cleaners.
Texture makes a difference. Some cats have very strong preferences about litter types. If the cat is eliminating on a very differently textured surface from the cat litter (such as the bathtub or magazines), cat litter texture or scent could be the problem. You may need to experiment with a number of litters to find one the cat likes. Don't buy a large bag of litter until you are certain it is acceptable to the cat. Some like lots of litter, some like only a thin layer.
The location of the litterbox should be private and easily accessible. If you live in a multi-cat household, it is a good idea to have a least one litterbox per cat, plus one additional one. The boxes should be in different locations so that all cats have easy access. Although some cats love the privacy found in a covered litterbox, some cats hate being in an outhouse: a covered litterbox is not a litterbox they are willing to use.
If changes in cleanliness, texture and location aren't completely successful, a cat can be retrained to using the litterbox by confinement in a small, quiet space, such as the bathroom. Be sure it has food, water and toys as well as the litterbox. When the cat is not confined because someone can watch it, make sure it can't get to the areas you don't want it to use for elimination. When the cat is reliably using the box in the small, quiet space it can gradually be moved to your desired location.
If the cat is spraying and not spayed or neutered, the first thing that should be done is to get it spayed or neutered. This is highly effective in stopping or greatly decreasing spraying by male cats of any age, and stops your female cat from wanting to announce its presence to male suitors.
You can try putting the cat's food or bed where it is marking (this works best if only a few spots are being marked). Make it difficult for cats to see outside, since the sight of strange cats may trigger spraying, by closing the curtains or blinds. Monitor cats when you are bringing new items into the house since many cats want to put their own identifying smells (urine) on them. Keep them away from the cat for a few days until they have absorbed the normal household scents and the cat no longer wants to mark them as a new part of its territory.
There are many medications that help tremendously with spraying. There are older one such as steroids, and several newer behavior modifying drugs such as Prozac. There is a new spray that mimics the scent found in the cat's facial scent glands. Cats won't spray on an area that they are accustomed to marking with their cheeks. The owner sprays the marked area until the cat accepts it as a cheek marking area, not a spraying area. Your veterinarian can help you select which of these products are appropriate for your cat.
There are many factors that influence inappropriate elimination in cats. Solving them can be a frustrating and time consuming process, but it can be done. Having your veterinarian assist you can considerably shorten the process and make living with your cat the relationship you would like it be, without inappropriate elimination problems.
Medical Behavior Problems
Can My Veterinarian Help My Crazy Pet?
Many pets are surrendered to animal shelters and humane societies because their owners are unable to manage what they see as these pets' behavior problems. Sometimes undesirable behavior is the result of poor, or no, training, and no help has ever been sought. Sometimes the pet wasn't appropriate for that particular owner. Sometimes help has been sought, but it hasn't worked. Sometimes, these 'behavior problems' are actually normal behavior, and the owner had unrealistic expectations about how pets behave. Sometimes there is an underlying medical condition that hasn't been addressed that is causing the behavior.
Very few of the pets we see surrendered for adoption have problems so severe that they can't be resolved, improved or managed so that the pet can do well in an adopting household. Training is often all that is needed. True behavioral problems that aren't caused by a medical problem can often be handled, using behavioral modification and training. Most shelters don't have the veterinary knowledge or skill to go beyond these methods to handle behavior problems, just as a school counselor wouldn't attempt to treat a psychiatric problem in a difficult student.
Many people are unaware of the important role their veterinarian can play in handling behavior problems. Both medically based and non-medically based behavior problems can often be corrected so successfully with veterinary treatment that the owner no longer needs to consider surrendering the pet to a shelter. Unfortunately, people often don't seek help from their veterinarian when they are confronting this type of problem with their pet.
Among the behaviors seen in dogs that can usually be treated by a veterinarian are aggression, barking, over excitability, nervousness, destructiveness, not being housebroken, excessive attention, overactivity, predatory behavior, eating their own feces or other inappropriate items, and excessive water drinking. Among the treatable behaviors seen in cats are scratching, obnoxious activity at night, attention seeking, roaming, vocalizing, inappropriate play, aggression and predatory behavior, spraying and urinating or defecating in the house. Age related problems such as senility, and fear related problems like noise phobias and separation anxiety are treatable in both dogs and cats.
The first thing the veterinarian will do is establish whether the problem is physical or mental. This will involve at least a physical exam, and may include blood tests, X-rays, a neurological exam, vision exam or other tests to rule out a medical cause for the unwanted behavior. If a medical cause is the problem, the owner and the veterinarian can pursue a protocol to resolve the problem. If there is no medical cause, strictly behavioral treatments can be pursued.
The treatment may include behavioral modification, or other traditional behavior therapies, and/or one or more of the wide range of behavioral drugs that are now on the market in both human and animal medicine. These include such things as: 1) pheromones (biological chemicals that act through odor) to prevent spraying in cats or aggression, separation anxiety or fear in dogs, 2) benzodiazepines such as Valium and others, used to treat spraying in cats and fears in dogs, 3) tricyclic antidepressants like Amitryptiline for urine marking and inappropriate urination in cats, various anxiety disorders in dogs, and certain types or aggression and repetitive self-trauma. and Clomipramine, used for calming obsessive-compulsive behavior and separation anxiety, 4) selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs) like Prozac, Paxil, used for dominance aggression and compulsive disorders in dogs and anxiety and aggression in cats, 5)monoamine oxidase inhibitors (MAOIs) such as Anipryl to treat symptoms of senility. This is not a complete list-many other medications are also available, including alternative treatments. I list these just to give an idea of the wide variety of treatments available that were not available in the past.
Many veterinarians have received training in behavioral medicine and enjoy helping clients establish a better relationship with their pets through behavior modification, medications or alternative therapies. Some prefer to refer animals with behavior problems to veterinary specialists, or colleagues who are particularly interested in behavioral medicine.
By the time a pet owner turns in a pet with a behavior problem for adoption,
they are often at the end of their rope. They may have tried several or
many ways to resolve the problem and keep the pet, and these methods have
been unsuccessful. Veterinary medicine has advanced a long way in the treatment
of animal behavior problems. Veterinarians can help, but may not be considered,
or remembered, as a source of potential help when people are trying to deal
with a pet's behavior problems. Please, consider the veterinarian, as well
as the shelter, the trainer or other sources of help, when trying to resolve
a pet's misbehavior.
